I have often been asked about how to properly maintain a horn.  Often on the horn list, there are often debates about the kinds of proper lubrication and procedures by which lubrication should be applied. This brings up a couple of items I would like to clarify.  While there may be good things to say about various types of lubricant, I would like to pass on my findings which span a few years of experience.

First of all, to properly maintain your instrument, you must remember 3 things: Oil, Oil, and Oil.

1.  Lighter oil, usually distilled/descented/refined kerosene works well most of the time.  This lubricant will help dissolve lime deposits and other crud in the ports of your rotors, if used regularly.

However, if your valves are very loose/worn, a thicker lubricant may be a better choice.

2.  Heavier oil, such as rotor bearing oil or key oil works best on the bearings, which carry much more friction from the rotating action of the valve.  Lighter oil can work, but if you wish to lengthen the life of your valves, heavier oil works better.

3.  If you have amato or Holton-type of water keys, you should oil these every month.  Amato keys may freeze and the Holton water keys have non-stainless steel springs which will corrode, unless you oil them regularly.

4.  Also take your heavy oil and put a drop on each spatula spring.  Believe it or not, this will help your valve action.

5.  Annoying buzzes can occur everywhere metal meets metal, no matter how well maintained an instrument you have.  For those with mechanical or semi-articulated valve levers, it is a good idea to put a drop of heavy oil on those hinges to alleviate unwanted buzzing.  (I have found that these things always occur during recording sessions-GRRRRRR!)

6.  Lubricate your slides so that they can be moved efficiently.  In addition, thicker lubrication such as anhydrous lanolin and the Selmer "Pink Goo" have an advantage that they may seal small leaks on the slide tendons.  However, this stuff should be used sparingly.

7.  When oiling your rotors with the thin oil, it is best to take out your first valve slide and put about 12 drops down one leg of the slide.  Then push this slide all the way in and tip the instrument upside down. Rocking the instrument back and forth, as well as side to side, manipulate the levers to equally distribute your oil.  Be sure and look at the end of the valve slide to make sure that there is no glob lubricant "goo" that can mix with the oil as it passes into the valve.  This will cause this grease to break down and go into the valve causing lots of sluggishness; this is especially problematic with anhydrous lanolin.

Warning:  Dropping the oil down the  valve tube onto the rotor (dive bomber method) is usually unsatisfactory.  Often the oil will hit the side of the tube diluting heavy grease into the valve.  This creates an increased sluggishness (as mentioned above) and more problems.

Also, do not mix petroleum products with synthetics!  This combination will really gunk-up the valve.  If you wish to use these products (e.g. Spacefiller, etc.) you must thoroughly clean out the horn (flush out the valve mechanism), take the valves apart and take a lint-free cloth (e.g. cheesecloth) and wipe off all remnants of the old petroleum product.  If you ever switch back to petroleum, the entire procedure should be repeated.  I hope this sheds additional light on the subject and helps out our younger members of the horn playing community.